Thirty knots of wind are rattling the rigging of Widdershins and a steady driving drizzle is descending from the snowy hills to the South of Tromsø. Meanwhile I’m hunkered down in the cabin with my hands wrapped around a steaming mug of coffee contemplating the list of tasks for the day. Anything outside is going to be a struggle right now, so it looks like this will be a chance to get the cabin organised, jettison some of the accumulated clutter that is not essential to the trip ahead and complete a provision list to ensure that Leonie and I are kept well in food and essentials.

It is surprising how much equipment is needed for our trip – photography gear takes up room in hard padded cases, piles of SCUBA equipment are crammed into every available hidey-hole, computers and electronics are mounted on every free flat surface, rolled up charts are tucked away in a few remaining spaces, and tools, wet weather gear and sundry other items are all packed tightly into what remains of our space. Widdershins is not a large yacht by any means and getting all this equipment stowed is quite a challenge! Still as long as there’s space for Leonie and I … and perhaps a bottle of fortifying spiced rum for those cold nights on watch.