We arrived in Greenland in autumn 2012 after dodging through bands of sea ice and between pods of feeding humpback whales. Scoresbysund at the north-east coast offered stunning scenery and a healthy dose of culture as we wandered amidst the shambling town of Ittoqqortoormiit. Big eyes, sweeping tundra, arctic hare and the first sea ice forming for the season all added a dash of excitement before we fled south in advance of the long winter night.

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