Cutting through the red tape

Here in Zürich things are getting more hectic everyday. In a little over two weeks I’m leaving for Tromsø, and in the meantime there are gazillions of loose ends to follow up. Today I spent hours at several Swiss governmental offices just to announce that I’m leaving the country, and of course they didn’t let me go without emptying my pockets. Thanks to Swiss bureaucracy there’s a whole lot more of administrative stuff I need to take care off, and of course there are tons of other things to do, like emptying my apartment and getting rid of most of my things, preparing for my PhD defence in a couple of days, arranging a PhD-party, resubmitting and publishing a couple of scientific papers, etc etc. Meanwhile Patrick is in Tromsø and not only struggling with the bad weather – our elderly boat needs to be in perfect shipshape before launching, and organizing everything in a remote arctic Norwegian town does not make things any easier. Well, not much more time, and we can leave all the struggle behind. Looking very much forward to finally setting sails!

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Stowing stuff

Thirty knots of wind are rattling the rigging of Widdershins and a steady driving drizzle is descending from the snowy hills to the South of Tromsø. Meanwhile I’m hunkered down in the cabin with my hands wrapped around a steaming mug of coffee contemplating the list of tasks for the day. Anything outside is going to be a struggle right now, so it looks like this will be a chance to get the cabin organised, jettison some of the accumulated clutter that is not essential to the trip ahead and complete a provision list to ensure that Leonie and I are kept well in food and essentials.

It is surprising how much equipment is needed for our trip – photography gear takes up room in hard padded cases, piles of SCUBA equipment are crammed into every available hidey-hole, computers and electronics are mounted on every free flat surface, rolled up charts are tucked away in a few remaining spaces, and tools, wet weather gear and sundry other items are all packed tightly into what remains of our space. Widdershins is not a large yacht by any means and getting all this equipment stowed is quite a challenge! Still as long as there’s space for Leonie and I … and perhaps a bottle of fortifying spiced rum for those cold nights on watch.

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A pinch of pride

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Dollars and sense

The long days in Tromsø are filled with the myriad of tasks required to get Widdershins on the water and daylight round the clock ensures long hours of tinkering and organisation and this would-be explorer is pulling out all stops to get ready to set sail. My good old friend Murphy is playing havoc with many plans of course – anything that can go wrong will go wrong – but a good dose of determination and a willingness to work hard seems enough to get over pretty much any obstacle. The countdown is on now but there is still plenty of work to do!

The new sails are installed, the new electronics including radar, Man Overboard safety tags, HF radio antennae, satellite phone, anemometer (wind recorder) and the SCUBA compressor are all installed or will be shortly. In fact with all the new gadgets cluttering the yacht at the moments it’s a bit like being a kid in a candy shop right now. Unfortunately having fancy new toys is no consolation for actually setting sail, and we are both eagerly awaiting the moment when the hull kisses the water for the first time this summer and the sails fill with a gentle breeze blowing us north.

The budget of the trip is also looking a little thin at the moment with many donors citing tough economic conditions to reduce or withheld money that was going to help us get on our way. The trip is definitely going to empty the meagre coffers of our own accounts … but then again, what is the price of freedom? Come what may, we will soon be sailing.

Call it perversity if you will, but while doing this trip on a shoestring takes away the comfort of a financial buffer, it also adds something to our project. One of the major visions we had when planning the trip many years ago was to demonstrate that with a bit of grit and a healthy dose of will power anyone can cast off the lines that bind them to one port and explore the world on their own terms. We hope to bring the wilderness of the world into many peoples home during our journey, but the bigger hope is that we encourage people to realise that the world is a big beautiful place and making small changes in the way we live will pay big dividends. Our lifestyle during the two in the blue journey will best be described as frugal …. but our lounge room will be the open ocean, our ceiling the blue sky and rather than taking our daily dose of wilderness filtered through TV documentaries wilderness will be our home for the next two years.

Of course all the major expenses have already been paid and our main financial wants relate to food, provisions and fuel at this stage…. But then again the seas are filled with fish and the wind is free. That’s not to say we aren’t still looking for additional funding to help us on the way! Every bit helps more than ever at this point, but knowing that we will sail come-what-may is a comforting thought. The wide open ocean awaits and we are ready to take up the challenge!

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How many doctors does it need to sail around the world?

While Patrick has earned his PhD degree years ago on invasive species in the Southern Ocean, I spent the last three years on researching how heritable information that is not directly encoded in the DNA (so called epigenetic inheritance) may contribute to adaptation in plants. Facing climate change and habitat loss genetic diversity of many species is declining, thus it is crucial to understand whether organisms can adapt to novel conditions independent of genetic variation. To study this I was using the study species Arabidopsis thaliana, which is the equivalent of the Drosophila fruit fly for plant scientists – both these species are routinely probed and played with by enthusiastic geneticists to solve the mysteries of the DNA world. For my PhD I have grown thousands and thousands of plants, measured their phenotypes under many different environmental conditions over several generations and performed a myriad of manual crosses on their tiny flowers. In the lab we measured the expression of genes of hundreds of plants … and in the end everything was compiled in my PhD thesis, which I have finally handed in to the ETH Zürich last week!

So now while Patrick is up in chilly Tromso tidying up the yacht in preparation for the trip I am tidying up three years of accumulated paper work, empty coffee mugs, and the general detritus left from long nights in the lab. Looking very forward to replacing the banks of beeping scientific equipment and white lab walls with the jagged coastline of the arctic and the wide blue ocean!

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Pre-departure penance

As the departure date for the Two in the Blue voyage approaches Leonie and I are working our fingers to the bone getting all the preparations in good order. Many moments I sit back from the desk and contemplate with a smile the idea of actually unfurling the sails, but for now it’s all business and not much fun! While I am tacking my way through the jagged piles of paperwork, Leonie is living through that particularly exquisite form of hell known as the final week of a PhD degree! It won’t be long before there are two doctors on board the ship.

So just in case you were wondering about the silence coming from this end – everything is going well it’s just that the highlight of both our day tends to be shuffling a pile of paper from one side of the desk to the other…. but not for much longer! We will be in the water by late May and before long all these flows of white paper before me will be replaces with floes of white ice!

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Pademelon paediatrics

There’s never a dull day in the bush. Last night there was a bit of barking and snarling outside and we awoke this morning to find that a pademelon had been killed by dogs last night. For those not from Tasmania – a pademelon is a very small wallaby (which could be described as a small kangaroo). These little wallabies are quite common around Tasmania and can regularly be seen hopping around of an evening. Despite the fact that they are clearly doing quite well it is never pleasant to awake to see the lifeless corpse of one of these little critters in the backyard.

But on closer inspection …. there was movement. As you will know wallabies carry their young (a joey) in a pouch, and though this female was very much passed on, a small tail could be seen protruding from the pouch and wiggling. Moments later there was a writhing bundle of life in my hand.

As it turned out the female joey was absolutely full of beans and seemed none too the worse for wear despite the night of terror. Indeed it needed no encouragement at all to wrap its lips around an eye dropper and take a drink of warm water with glucose to get its energy and fluids up. Actually, I reckon this joey has a bit of a sweet tooth as it spent quite some considerable time lapping up the spilt solution after it had downed it’s ration!

Unfortunately I am in no palace to take on the care of this cute little fellow, though I have fond memories of bringing up a baby pretty face wallaby as a child on the farm in Queensland. It’s amazing how much appeal and character these creatures have and though it was certainly the right thing to do it was a little sad to hand over the little joey to Trowunna Wildlife Park (www.trowunna.com.au) to take over its care. Trowunna have a policy of releasing orphaned wallabies in the same location as they were found so hopefully this little gal will be hopping around the house again in a couple of months.

 

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R&R

First of all, my apologies for the lack of updates over the past couple of weeks – Leonie and I have been seeking a small dose of solitude and serenity in the wilds of Tasmania before we launch ourselves into the final frantic preparations for our July departure.  While still keeping the preparations rolling at a steady pace we have been sampling the pleasures of terra firma – a stroll through the Tasmanian wilderness, wading through chuckling streams in search of a brown trout, or just generally catching up with friends and family after a long absence.

But still the wheels roll on, and we have not been entirely idle! Perhaps one of the largest challenges of late has been an ongoing tussle with bureaucracy.  I challenge you …. Just try and explain to the officials in a small Australian state that you very much need a rifle license as you are worried that you might be attacked by polar bears …  “yes the big hairy ones that live in the Arctic” … “no, I didn’t see a corresponding box in the form and it wouldn’t be very likely would it?”…“no sir, I’m not giving you cheek … ” [CLICK] beep beep beep …

Other than several long and very confusing telephone calls regarding licensing, permits, rifle exportation, etc etc., we have also been opening the floodgates on our meager finances to get some badly needed equipment. This includes satellite phones (so we can continue blogging), wet weather gear so we have a dry layer when we are not going for a swim), personal safety beacons (to alert one of us when the other takes an unexpected swim) an anemometers (to tell us exactly what the wind chill is after we have gone for an unexpected swim), and various other shiny and very expensive kit that is piling up and nudging my baggage weight into the “critical overweight” category.

Well now it’s back to chasing some very much needed funds to re-inflate our depleted back accounts … please let us know if you know anyone interested in helping us out on our journey!!

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Summers End

The past few days in Antarctica have seen some dramatic changes. Just ten days ago we were basking in sunlight and calm days. Ever since land reared out from a turgid sea on this trip we have been accosted by strong winds, steel grey skies and a constant mix of drizzle and sleet. The penguin colonies and mires of mud and guano with only a hand full of penguins standing miserably in a pile of feather as they shed the bedraggled growth of the last year in preparation for the comming winter. The gloomy conditions are relieved by huge numbers of humpback whales congregating to mop up the last of the summers krill, and also by the fat looking leopard seals and orcas rilled to bursting on the easy snacks made from young penguins taking to the water for the first time. With season turning all around us we are also fleeing the approaching winter also and we are now bound for the North with only two more days before we leave the frozen continent to it’s seasons slumber. There are still many exciting excersions ahead but there is definitely a feeling of farewell upon us at present.

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The best zodiac cruise ever

Today we started out with a glorious landing at Orne Harbour – a steep climb up to a chinstrap penguin colony 90 m above a mirror calm ocean reflecting a perfectly clear blue sky and the white capped peaks all around. Resting amidst the clamour of the penguins, it was hard to contemplate that the day could get better….

…until we launched the zodiacs in Wilhelmina Bay. After lunch the clouds had drawn in to cast the bay in steel grey light but immediately upon nosing the boat into the brash ice lining the bay the deep bass bellow of humpback whale blows resounded from the glaciers and we watched avidly as two whales crashed through the jumble of ice before making their way into deeper water. Leaving these leviathans to watch a basking leopard seal we were soon diverted by a pair of dwarf minke whales which played around the zodiac for 15 minutes and swam below us in the clear water looking up as they pondered these odd visitors to their domain.

But the minke whales where simply the warm up. Ten minutes later we found two more humpback whales that were fascinated by our cruise ship. They circled the ship for what seemed an age spy-hopping to gain a better view of what must seem a rather strange apparition in these icy waters. At one point they pushed their noses out of the water and seemed to be seriously contemplating mounting the gangway to get the tour of the inside as well!

But this time there was a cluster of zodiacs around the action and before long these gently giants shifted their curiosity to the smaller black zodiacs. What ensued was two hours that will be etched into my memory forever. As we drifted with a gentle breeze the whales moved from zodiac to zodiac paying each of us a visit and giving us all a thorough inspection. The whales lay on their sides gazing up at us from 3o cm below the water with their pectoral fins waiving above us. They pushed their nose above the water to eye level and gazed at us from the air to see if we made more sense above the water than below. They scratched their back on the bottom of our boats, they pushed against the side of the boat as if requesting a scratch, and they thoroughly covered all the spectators in a thick coating of whale snot as they sent jets of water towards us accompanied by the deep sound of a whale blow at close quarters.

After many years of working in Antarctica this was an experience that will redefine the “zodiac cruise”. It is hard to imagine it could get better!

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