Lindesnes Peninsula

Last week I was enjoying the sheer thrill of sailing with no schedule and an open ocean in front of me. There was no rush and I simply hopped between picturesque harbours and spent the mornings catching a feed of fish or exploring the rocky islets that are my home each night. But time is ticking and I have a way to go before I meet Léonie in Egersund in a little over a week.

I’ve had a run of windy weather and now I’ve arrived at a spot renowned for wind and tricky sailing – right now it’s an early morning in Båli and after a cup of coffee I’ll be heading around the notorious Lindesnes Peninsula. But it’s a far cry from the Bali in Indonesia so familiar to many Australian tourists. Rather than white beaches and throngs of bikini clad tourists, here we have windswept hills and water stirred by the currents that flow around the headland. Yesterday I arrived with strong gusts of wind pushing Widdershins around as I steered through the rocky entrance. This morning – it’s an ominous stillness with fog shrouding the hills and a gentle rain pattering on the deck over my head. But the weather report predicts a still morning before the wind once again roars around Lindesnes so it’s time to don the wet weather gear and head out to sea!

 

 

Posted in Norway | Leave a comment

Knuthavn

After an early morning departure from Lillesand where I spent the last two days I quickly cleared the narrow entrance and set sail for the West. Today’s task was to catch a fish as a few previous attempts had resulted in me leaving several expensive items of fishing tackle on the sea floor with nothing to show for the effort. So a short sail and I turned in towards the complex of small islands around Agerøya and found a likely spot. Two minutes later I had two nice cod in the bucket and was ready to sail on. Actually it was just a little too easy after having built myself up to spend the day hunting the crafty cod that had thus far eluded me, but fun none-the-less and two is plenty for the day’s meal. So another short sail and I arrived at lovely Knuthavn were I pulled up alongside and started cooking up a storm. Lightly floured cod fillet cooked in a lemon cause and served on a bed of spiced couscous…. Not bad at all and splendid part of the world to enjoy good food.

 

Posted in Norway | Leave a comment

Seals!

A late day’s sail as I spent the morning attaching the new Windex to replace our old one which didn’t survive winter. As a matter of fact I noticed the frayed remnants of a Windex on the ground near Widdershins before she was launched and remember thinking that some poor mug has lost his … turns out the joke was on me on the first day I set sail and looked up to see that the Windex (which tells you which way the wind is blowing and allows you to adjust your sail) was missing. So this saw me clambering up the sail early this morning with a wrench in hand while I tried to take the mounting of the last one off, and install the new device. Took a few attempts but now Widdershins is topped by a sparkling new Windex that should see us through our long voyage.

Once this was all fixed and a few chores done (have you ever tried to wash your clothes in a small sink …not much fun) I was off for Risør. A really pleasant surprise was a group of over 30 seals lying on a rock just our side of my nights anchorage. These harbour seals are much maligned as they commit the ultimate sin of competing with us for fish! Fancy that the cheeky buggers! Needless to say many people shoot them on site, but the good news is that numbers are finally returning to the south coast of Norway and hopefully a group of lounging seals on a rock will be a common sight in the days to come.

Now I’m in Risør, home to the wooden boat festival. During the festival the town is crowded and boisterous but right now it is just another sleepy town by the water. A pleasant place to stay the night with power to recharge my laptop!

Posted in Norway | Tagged | Leave a comment

Widdershins on the water

As I write I’m lying at anchor in Havenholmen – a pleasant little anchorage surrounded by sandy beaches and granite boulders worn smooth from eons of wind. So, after a busy morning with a few hitches we are finally on the water and ready to head north towards Tromsø. Those hitches include frigid weather with windblown sleet, a delayed launch time which didn’t see me hit the water til after lunch, and a belligerent motor complaining after a winter’s neglect. Took a lot of sweat blood and tears to get a spark of life in the old girl but now she’s running like a charm. Today’s short passage took me amidst the skerries and rocky outcrops of Norway’s south coast with eider ducks a constant companion as I peered around the driving station into the sleet. It’s tough at times, but now the sun has peeked out from the clouds and this sheltered and picturesque bay is shielding me from the wind. Life is sweet.

 

Posted in Norway | Tagged | Leave a comment

Don’t spOIL it

Well, only a couple of days before the water is once again cradling Widdershins and I begin sailing south towards my rendezvous with Leonie in Kristiansand late in May. It’s been a long week of re-fitting Widdershins with new equipment and servicing all the various parts that will keep us safe on the seas. However, waking early to the sound of seagulls wheeling around and the gentle spring sun of Norway has been a pleasure, albeit I feel just a little grotty having been covered with oil, pain and various other substances for the past few days.

As I speak on oil, I should also divert to mention that while I am ok with my own person being covered with a horrible black mess I am definitely not happy with the prospect of an oil spill in the Arctic. After the mess in the gulf of Mexico last year the world called strongly for a halt on oil exploration in the Arctic and the need to prevent a similar disaster in this pristine part of the world where the wildlife is far more vulnerable to a spill and where the physical conditions make it almost impossible to either engage in a spill response similar to the Gulf (as there are no facilities and few people or boats capable of aiding). Similarly the weather conditions and sever climate mean that most of our technology for cleaning spills simply won’t work here which in my mind suggests we should simply keep out until we can show the capability of adequately responding to a spill here. Better yet, the world should take note of the universal call for alternative energies and keep out completely. It seems just a little short sighted to drill for every last drop of oil before we finally take the initiative to look elsewhere for our energy and the health of our planet.

Meanwhile, as the universal concern over the Gulf fades into our short media memory, sights are being turned back towards the Arctic – towards profit and resource security for the nations that circle this wilderness. Greenpeace have just abandoned their protest of the drilling platform heading to Greenland due to weather conditions that should be a reminder to the operators that this is not a safe place to drill. In the US Thad Allen, the government point person for the Gulf response while acknowledging the various concerns has not ruled out further exploration and drilling the Alaskan Arctic (http://www.star-telegram.com/2011/04/30/3039017/arctic-oil-spill-could-be-more.html). In the meantime Shell’s existing lease in the Chukchi Sea is still planning on being operational by 2012 despite all the risks and inadequate technology.

As for the oil I will be carrying on Widdershins we will have a strict zero discharge policy to make sure we don’t contribute to any spills or impacts in the Arctic. More importantly perhaps, wherever possible we will not be using diesel – we are in no rush and the wind supplies ample energy to get us around and see this fantastic wilderness. Besides …wind is free.

 

Posted in Conservation | 1 Comment

Tuition on toxins

As I paint the hull of Widdershins with a thick coat of black antifouling paint it is worth thinking of the journey before us and the vestiges that we will leave behind us. The paint, you see, is an antifouling paint containing toxic copper compounds that prevent animals settling on the hull and slowing us down. Perhaps more importantly, the paint stops marine species from here in Norway catching a ride with us to the Arctic and ultimately even to the American continent. Having spent years as a scientist researching the types of impacts such alien hitchhikers can cause I am determined that our venture into the remote extremes of the earth will not be the vector for an invasion that will cause havoc to the natural environment. On the other hand, we will be heading north with a coat of toxic paint designed to slowly leach into the water. A bit of a conundrum. Some paints such as Tributyl-tin (TBT) have been internationally banned due to their toxic effects and though we aren’t using such strong toxins, copper paints have also been found to cause impacts in high concentrations.

Meanwhile, the University of Alberta has recently found toxic levels of mercury in the Arctic ocean http://www.montrealgazette.com/health/Deadly+form+mercury+found
+Arctic+waters+researchers/4691544/story.html
– and to show how unpredictable these things can be. The origin of these toxins, which reached the oceans via our industry and coal burning plants, was originally a non-toxic form that unfortunately transformed into a killer neurotoxin that will affect not only Arctic wildlife but also the Inuit people that depend upon them. Remember also that the Arctic is one of the largest sources of whitefish for the entire planet!

As for me, I’m currently liberally covered with the toxic paint myself, not being the neatest painter on earth, so I guess I’ll be the first to suffer, but it is a reminder that when we set forth into the pristine frontiers of the globe we need to pause and consider all details to make sure we leave it in the same state we found it. In our case I hope we can leave it even a little better!

 

Posted in Conservation | Leave a comment

High and dry

It’s been a while since we updated the blog as we have been away from the water getting some R&R after a long season in Antarctica. But now I’m back aboard albeit not in the water quite yet. Widdershins in launched back into the brisk spring sea of Norway on May 02 and there’s a lot to be done before then! The morning starts with a quick wash in the sink to cast away the fog of sleep – luke warm water off the diesel stove poured over my head and a quick scrub with a damp cloth and I’m ready for action … after the obligatory cup of coffee of course! The days here in southern Norway have a chill in the early hours but this is rapidly dispelled as the sun paints the deck with colour and slowly burns away the vestiges of the night. Right now I‘m installing some new equipment including a SSB radio that will provide long range communication anywhere on the globe as well as a radar to help us navigate through the ice strewn waters of the poles. Apart from electrical wiring and scaling the mast to mount various odds and ends I’m spending my days up to my elbows in grease getting the motor ready and generally maintaining the boat after a long winter away. It’s nice to be aboard again but looking forward to getting back in the water.

Posted in Norway | 1 Comment

Into the interior

The circumference of Tenerife is fringed by beautiful beaches with grey stained sands from the eons of volcanic activity. Watching the waves lap upon these far flung shores and soaking up some sunshine is definitely worth a day or two but the island has far more to explore! Aboard our two trusty scooters we were soon buzzing around narrow winding roads through landscapesranging from arid plains populated by countless cacti to frozen fields of churned magma that spewed for El Teide thousands of years ago. Raising from sea level to over 3,000m the journey took us from the coastal hinterlands into the arid band of desert in the foothills before entering the greener pine-clad mountains of the interior. Finally the pines give way to bare rock and the cold war-zone of magma and volcanic bombs that crown this island in a spectacular moon-like landscape.

 

Posted in Canary Islands | Leave a comment

Tenerife – two in the blue style

Anyone who has been to Tenerife has doubtlessly cringed at the forbidding hive of condominiums and fancy hotel-resorts. These sprawling edifices crowd the beaches and transform the tranquil island landscape into a cement jungle complete with its languid population of tourists who rarely venture far from the tout-lined path from the hotel to the beach sunbathing spots. Not really our scene!  So we decided to strike out for our own tailor made Tenerife adventure.

No motorbikes could be had for love or money so after a little haggling Léonie and I were soon happily straddling a pair of 150cc scooters and buzzing around the winding roads leading to the interior of the island. Not quite the power of the motorcycles that carried us across the South American continent back in 2009, but a whole load of fun none-the-less!

 

Posted in Canary Islands | Leave a comment

From the cold to the canaries

After spending four months in the cold clutches of Antarctica Léonie and I decided to take some time out in the Canary Islands. Just a week after waving good bye to Tierra del Fuego, the southern-most tip of South America, our plane touched down on the barren sandy ground of Tenerife. The vista of icebergs, jagged peaks and wide wind whipped oceans that has been my home for months was suddenly replaced by an arid volcanic landscape punctuated by cacti, strange trees and the snow clad peak of El Teide – the islands active volcano! Forget the woolly mittens and the beanie … time to break out the swimmers and try and do something about this pale Antarctic complexion of mine!

 

Posted in Canary Islands, Patrick in Antarctica | Leave a comment